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How do I Remove the Transmission on a Mazda B2600?

by Shari Caudill

Mazda manufactured its B2600 series of small pickups from 1986 through 1993. Marketed for personal use, the truck retailed for less than $15,000. The B2600i models included a narrow bench seat known as a jump seat in an extended cab. Mazda manufactured only rear-wheel-drive models in 1986 with an option of a 4- or 5-speed manual transmission. All models after the first year were 4 x 4s or all-wheel-drive vehicles. Depending on the year and model, these B2600s featured a choice of a 4- or 5-speed manual or 3- or 4-speed automatic transmission.

Removal

Disconnect the negative battery cable and then the positive.

Remove the gear-selector knob, along with the console box, insulator plate, shift boot, and transfer-case shift lever.

Raise the vehicle and properly support it with vehicle stands, ramps or both.

Drain the transmission fluid into a container. Avoid spilling the fluid on the ground or into any nearby drains. Take the old transmission fluid to a local auto parts store or repair shop for disposal.

Remove the undercover. The undercover is not equipped on all models. Mark the front and rear drive shafts to help you when you start re-assembling. Remove the drive shafts.

Install a plug in the rear of the transmission to prevent any remaining transmission fluid from leaking.

Disconnect the speedometer and shifter cables from the transmission. Separate the vacuum hose from the transmission.

Detach the crossmembers or front transmission supports from the torque converter housing. This is also called the bell housing due to its shape. Remove the torque converter bolts and carefully lay them aside. You will need to re-use them.

Disconnect the kickdown solenoid and the oil cooler lines from the transmission. Remove the starter.

Detach any remaining wiring connections from the transmissions. If you are unfamiliar with the wiring's purpose, wrap masking tape around the wiring and make placement notes to make reinstalling the transmission easier.

Support the transmission with a jack. If possible, rent or purchase a transmission jack. Detach the rear transmission crossmember and transmission-to-engine bolts. Lay them aside. Lower the transmission from the vehicle and pull it away.

Installation

Roll the new transmission under the vehicle and raise it into place. Make sure the torque converter is properly seated before installing the transmission. The distance between the engine mating surface and the converter face is 1.42 inches or 36 millimeters on the all-wheel-drive vehicles. On the 1986 trucks, the correct distance is 2.13 inches or 54 mm. The torque converter bolts tighten to 25 foot pounds.

Replace the transmission-to-engine bolts and re-attach the rear transmission crossmember. Tighten the transmission to engine bolt to 27 foot pounds. Adjust each of the transmission center support and transmission mount bolts to 23 foot pounds.

Re-attach all the wiring to the transmission, as well as the starter, kickdown solenoid, oil cooler lines, front crossmembers, torque converter bolts, vacuum hose, and the speedometer and shifter cables. Tighten the starter bolt to 27 foot pounds.

Adjust the shifter linkage until it is properly working.

Add 8 quarts of new transmission fluid and check for external leaks.

Tip

  • Put bolts in different envelopes. Write the bolts' placement on the front. This will keep them separated and together.

Warning

  • Make sure the vehicle is supported. If it falls, it could result in serious injury.

Items you will need

About the Author

Shari Caudill began writing professionally in 1985 with the "Portsmouth Daily Times." Her work has also been published in the "Community Common" and "Cleveland Plain Dealer." Caudill has a writing certificate from the Institute of Children's Literature and a photography certificate from the New York Institute of Photography.

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