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How to Install a New Clutch Kit on a Camry

by Cayden Conor

The clutch on the Camry transfers power from the engine to the drive train via the clutch. The clutch discs rub against each other, causing friction. When the discs generate enough friction, you can shift from one gear to the next. Because the clutch discs rub so much, they tend to wear out over time. When replacing the clutch, it is best to purchase a clutch kit, which contains the clutch, disc, release bearing, alignment tool and spline lube.

Disconnect the battery ground cable with a wrench. If your Camry has an airbag, wait 90 seconds before proceeding. Disconnect the battery's positive cable. Remove the battery with the appropriate sockets.

Unscrew then remove the air cleaner assembly with the appropriate sockets. Disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle body. If the Camry is equipped with cruise control, remove the cruise control actuator cover located near the throttle body. Unplug the cruise control connector.

Remove the ground wire (battery ground) from the engine. Raise the Camry with a floor jack and support it on jack stands. Remove the wiring from the starter. Put the nuts back onto the studs so you don't lose them. Unbolt and remove the starter with the appropriate socket.

Unplug the speed sensor connectors, park/neutral position switch connector and the direct clutch speed sensor. Disconnect the solenoid connector. Disconnect the shift control cable. Unscrew the oil cooler hoses with the appropriate wrenches. All these components are located on the transmission.

Remove the two transmission mounting bolts, located on the front of the transmission, with the appropriate socket. Remove the two engine mounting bolts from the front engine mount with the appropriate socket. Remove the oil cooler lines from the front part of the frame. Remove the three bolts that hold the upper part of the transmission to the engine.

Attach engine support chains to the engine bolts on the top of the engine. Tie the steering gear housing to the engine support fixture. Slide a drain pan under the transmission pan. Remove the drain plug from the pan and allow the fluid to empty. If the drain pan does not have a drain plug, remove the bolts on the transmission pan then remove the pan carefully to avoid spilling the fluid and empty the fluid into the drain pan.

Remove the front wheels with a lug wrench. Unbolt and remove the front exhaust pipe with the appropriate socket. Remove the engine side covers and the covers under the engine with the appropriate sockets. Disconnect both half shafts with the appropriate sockets then pull the half shafts out of the transmission.

Unscrew the front engine mounting nut on the front engine mount with the appropriate socket. Remove the bolts from the rear engine mounts. Remove the four transmission mounting bolts from the left side of the transmission. Unbolt and remove the steering gear housing with the appropriate sockets.

Unbolt and remove the front frame assembly. Support it with the floor jack if you find it too heavy to remove by hand. Slide the floor jack under the transmission and jack it up enough so that it supports the transmission. Remove the rear plate mounting bolts. Remove the torque converter cover with the appropriate sockets. Remove the torque converter bolts then remove the remaining transmission mounting bolts with the appropriate sockets. Pull the transmission away from the engine while balancing it on the floor jack.

Draw a mark on the clutch cover and the flywheel. Loosen each bolt on the clutch cover one turn at a time until you do not feel any more spring tension. Remove the clutch pressure plate retaining bolts with the appropriate socket. Remove the clutch cover and clutch disc. Remove the retaining clip on the release bearing and pull the release bearing off of the transmission. Unbolt and remove the release fork and boot assembly.

Install the clutch disc onto the flywheel using the clutch disc alignment tool that came in the clutch kit. Lift the clutch cover up to the flywheel and line the marks up. Install the clutch cover retaining bolts a few threads. Tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern to 14 foot-pounds of torque.

Grease the release fork pivot contact points, release bearing, the bearing hub and the input shaft splines with the spline lube included in the kit. If there is not enough, you can also use multi-purpose grease.

Reinstall the boot, release fork, hub and the bearing assemblies. Lift the transmission up to the engine with the floor jack. Line up the two dowel pins on the block with the converter housing. Tighten the 10 mm bolts to 34 foot-pounds of torque. Tighten the 12 mm bolts to 47 foot-pounds of torque. Coat the threads of the torque converter bolts with sealer. Install the green bolt first then the rest of the bolts. Tighten them finger-tight then set the torque wrench to 20 foot-pounds. Using the torque wrench, make two turns on each bolt until they are all evenly torqued.

Reinstall the rear end plate and tighten the bolts to 27 foot-pounds of torque. Reinstall the front frame assembly. Tighten the 12 mm bolts to 24 foot-pounds, the 19 mm bolts to 134 foot-pounds and the nut to 27 foot-pounds of torque. Reinstall the two fender liner set screws. Reconnect the steering gear to the frame. Tighten the bolts to 134 foot-pounds of torque.

Reconnect the sway bar brackets and torque the bolts to 14 foot-pounds of torque. Install the trans-axle mounting bolts and tighten them to 38 foot-pounds of torque. Install the rear side mounting bolts and tighten them to 48 foot-pounds of torque. Install the engine mounting nut and tighten it to 59 foot-pounds of torque.

Reinstall the half shafts. Tighten the axle bolt firmly. Reinstall the engine covers. Fill the transmission with DEXRON II transmission fluid. Reinstall the wheel and lower the Camry off the jack stands. Remove the engine support. Install the four upper transmission mounting bolts and tighten them to 47 foot-pounds of torque. Reinstall the oil cooler clamping bolts on the front frame. Reinstall the two front engine mounting bolts and tighten them to 59 foot-pounds of torque.

Reinstall the rest of the parts in the reverse order of removal. Reconnect the throttle cable on the engine and tighten the nuts to 11 foot-pounds of torque. Reinstall the battery, positive cable first.

Items you will need

About the Author

Cayden Conor has been writing since 1996. She has been published on several websites and in the winter 1996 issue of "QECE." Conor specializes in home and garden, dogs, legal, automotive and business subjects, with years of hands-on experience in these areas. She has an Associate of Science (paralegal) from Manchester Community College and studied computer science, criminology and education at University of Tampa.

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