How to Bleed Brembo Brakesby Alibaster Smith
Bleeding your brakes is necessary for a functional brake system. The Brembo brake system uses standard hydraulic fluid to force a piston against its brake pads and in turn against its rotor. If there is any air in the brake lines, however, brake pressure drops off dramatically. In fact, you could end up with no brake pressure in your lines. To correct this problem, you'll need to bleed your Brembo brakes.
Place the socket end of the tire wrench over the lug nuts of the driver's-side wheel and turn them 1/4 turn. Repeat this for every wheel.
Jack the vehicle up on the front jack point (typically located near the radiator), which will be an extension of the frame or the frame itself.
Place jack stands underneath the frame in the front of the vehicle, and lower the jack onto the jack stands.
Jack up the rear of the vehicle using the rear jack point (near the trunk).
Place jack stands under the frame in the rear of the vehicle, and lower the jack onto the jack stands.
Finish removing the lug nuts with the tire wrench and remove the wheels.
Starting with the passenger side rear, locate the brake-bleeder valve. This will look like a small knob with a hole in the top of it sticking out of the side of the Brembo brake-caliper assembly. This is the brake-bleeder valve, also called a "bleeder screw." This is the bleeder valve that you'll use to bleed the Brembo brake system.
Place the appropriate size of box-end wrench for your vehicle's brake bleeder over the bleeder screw. Orient the wrench so that it is grabbing the nut portion of the screw (so you can loosen the screw to bleed the valve). Do not open the screw yet, just get the proper orientation for the wrench. Typically this is a 10mm wrench, but it may differ depending on your vehicle.
Fit one end of the plastic tubing over the end of the bleeder screw. Make sure it is fully covering the screw and that it is snug and tight.
Put the other end of the plastic tubing in the plastic or glass jar. Put about an inch of brake fluid in the jar to prevent the tube from sucking air back into the system.
Have your assistant pump the brake pedal several times. On the last pump, your helper should hold the brake pedal down firmly and not let up.
With the brake pedal pressed, turn the wrench on the bleeder screw counterclockwise to loosen the screw. Fluid will be forced out of the screw and through the tube into the jar, and the brake pedal will drop to the floor. This is normal, because you are relieving pressure from the system. You should notice some air bubbles if you suspect that there is air in the lines.
Retighten the screw and tell your assistant to let off the brake pedal.
Open the hood of your vehicle and locate the brake master cylinder. Unscrew the top of the master cylinder and check the brake-fluid level. Make sure it never drops below the "minimum" line marked on the outside of the brake master-cylinder reservoir. Refill the master cylinder as necessary during this process.
Repeat steps 11, 12, and 13 until there are no air bubbles being forced through the plastic tubing. Periodically repeat Step 14 and keep an eye on the brake-fluid level so that you do not reintroduce air into the system.
Repeat steps 8 through 15 for each wheel on the vehicle, ensuring that you finish when there is no more air being forced through the plastic tubing. From the passenger-side rear, move the the driver-side rear, then to the passenger-side front, and finally the driver-side front wheel.
Put the wheels back on and lower the vehicle to the ground. Assembly is the reverse of removal. Retorque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds.
- Make sure you are checking the brake fluid levels. You do not want the brake fluid level in the Master Cylinder to drop below the "min" line or else you run the risk of introducing air into the lines as you are bleeding them.