How to Replace Wheel Bearings on Cars

by Contributing Writer; Updated June 12, 2017

A growling or humming noise when driving down the road is a sign of potential trouble. If you swerve the steering wheel and the noise changes, the culprit is probably a wheel bearing. Usually, this only occurs on one side. Determine which side has failed by lifting the front of the vehicle and spinning the wheels by hand. Often, you can hear the noise in the side that has failed. The failed hub and bearing may also feel loose when you grab the tire by the top and bottom, and pull in and out. Dodge car use a sealed hub and bearing. This means that the only replaceable parts are the wheel studs. The bearing cannot be lubricated, and in case of failure, the complete hub and bearing must be replaced.

Under The Hood:

 How to Replace Wheel Bearings on a Dodge Caravan

Removal/Disassembly

Raise the vehicle using a suitable floor jack. The correct lift points for the Dodge Caravan are located under the floor pan and body. They are marked by small downward pointing triangles. Place the jack under this point, and lift. When finished lifting, place a safety stand in a position where it will support the vehicle if the jack fails.

Use a wheel nut wrench to remove the five wheel nuts. Remove the tire and wheel assembly from the vehicle. You may want to enlist a helper to hold the brake pedal to make the removal process easier.

Remove the cotter pin from the end of the axle shaft. A cotter pin is a thin piece of metal that looks like a sewing pin, with a rounded piece at the top. The bottom part is split and bent both ways to prevent it from coming out. Remove the nut lock and spring washer as well. While a helper holds the brake pedal, remove the axle shaft nut on the end of the axle shaft.

Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts on the back side of the steering knuckle. Gently remove the brake caliper from the rotor, and support its weight with a coat hanger or bungee cord. If the brake rotor has never been off the vehicle, look for a small clip on one of the wheel studs. Remove this clip with pliers, and discard it. You will not need to re-use this--it is for assembly-line purposes.

Slide the brake rotor off the hub and bearing. If the rotor is stuck, apply penetrating lubricant to the area where the brake rotor meets the hub and bearing. Let it soak for 30 minutes, and try again. If it is still stuck, tap it gently with a hammer around the area where you sprayed penetrating lubricant. If the rotor still will not come off, you may tap the back of the rotor gently with a hammer to remove it.

Push in on the axle shaft end, to disengage it from the splines that are part of the hub and bearing assembly. On the back of the steering knuckle, there are four hub and bearing mounting bolts. Using a socket wrench, remove these four bolts. Be careful not to come in contact with the tone wheel on the axle. The tone wheel is a round piece on the axle shaft with teeth cast in it. Remove the hub and bearing assembly from the steering knuckle.

Installation

Clean the mounting surface on the steering knuckle carefully. Install the hub and bearing onto the splines of the axle shaft. Move the hub and bearing into the steering knuckle, until it is squarely seated on the knuckle.

Install the four hub and bearing mounting bolts from the back of the steering knuckle. Tighten these bolts in a criss-cross pattern, to 45 foot-lbs. of torque.

Place the brake rotor on the wheel studs, pushing it back completely onto the hub and bearing assembly. Install the brake caliper and adapter assembly onto the brake rotor, pushing it down until the two bolt holes in the caliper align with the holes in the steering knuckle. Install the two bolts from the inside of the steering knuckle. Tighten these two bolts to 125 foot-lbs. of torque.

Install the hub nut on the end of the axle shaft. Use a helper to hold the brake pedal. Tighten the axle nut to 180 foot-lbs. of torque. Install the spring washer and nut lock onto the axle nut. Install a new cotter pin through the hole in the end of the axle shaft, and split the cotter pin at the end, bending the ends apart, to secure the axle nut.

Install tire and wheel assembly. Tighten the wheel nuts to 100 foot-lbs. of torque, using the helper to hold the brakes as necessary. Remove the safety stand, and lower the vehicle.

Items you will need

  • Floor jack

  • Jack stands

  • Wheel nut wrench

  • Basic set of hand tools

  • New hub and bearing assembly

  • Helper

  • Coat hanger or bungee cord

  • Torque wrench

 How To Replace Wheel Bearings On Dodge Vans

Jack the van up leaving clearance between the ground and the bottom of the tire. Remove the front wheel.

Locate and remove the two bolts holding the caliper in place. They will be in back of the caliper.

Remove the dust cap in the center of the spindle. This can be done by prying it out with a screwdriver.

Pry the cotter pin with a pair of pliers. You may need to straighten the ends of the pin out.

Loosen the nut and unscrew it off the spindle. The washer will come out behind it.

Pull the rotor off the spindle. You may need to tap it with a hammer if it does not come out.

Empty the old bearings and oil seal from the inside of the rotor if they have not fallen out during removal. The wheel seal will pry out with a flathead screwdriver.

Replacing the bearings on a Dodge Van

Pack the bearings in white lithium grease. Place the bearings in the tub of grease to ensure grease gets properly circulated in the bearings.

Clean the spindle off with a clean rag. Clean the rotor out of any debris if your using the old one.

Pull the larger bearing out of the tub of grease. Place the bearing and the race in the back end of the rotor. Place the oil seal on the back end of the rotor. You can tap it in with a hammer. Make sure it is flush with the rotor.

Fill the remaining space with grease to make sure the bearing is properly lubricated. This will ensure the bearing is properly packed as well.

Slide the rotor on the assembly. It will slide to the back of the spindle. If the rotor does not go all the way you will need to pull the rotor off to inspect for blockage.

Place the smaller bearing and race in the spindle on the front end. The bearing and race will slide to the back of the front half of the rotor.

Pack the remaining portion of space with grease to ensure the bearing is packed. This will keep the bearing lubricated.

Slide the washer on the spindle. Follow it with the lock nut. Tighten the nut until it is snug. When the nut is snug, turn the nut back half a turn.

Slip the cotter pin into the hole on the lock nut. Separate the bottom of the cotter pin to ensure it does not slip out.

Mount the wheel back on the van. Repeat steps on the other front wheel.

Items you will need

  • New bearings

  • New races

  • Flathead screwdriver

  • Socket set

  • Ratchet

  • White lithium grease

  • Clean rags

  • Jack

  • Chock

 How to Replace the Wheel Bearings on a 2000 Sunfire

Place wheel chocks behind both rear tires. Remove the wheel covers or center caps from both front wheels. Loosen but do not remove the axle nuts on both CV axles with a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar and an M20-1.5 spindle nut socket.

Loosen the front lug nuts with a tire iron. Raise the front of the Sunfire with a jack. Place jack stands beneath the front subframe members on each side of the engine. Lower the car onto the jack stands. Remove the front lug nuts, then remove the both front wheels from the Sunfire.

Remove the caliper mounting bolts with a 3/8-inch-drive ratchet and a hex head socket. Remove the caliper from the brake assembly, using a small pry bar if needed. Hang the front caliper on the front strut coil spring, using a metal clothes hanger or metal hook. Remove the front rotor and place the rotor out of your work area.

Rotate the axle nut until the outer lip of the nut is flush with the end of the axle. Strike the end of the axle on the nut with a rubber mallet, until the axle pops loose from inside the hub assembly. Do not use a metal or ball peen hammer to strike the axle nut. Push the axle inward with the palm of your hand, to see if it is moving inside the hub assembly.

Insert a T55 Torx socket onto the end of a 3/8-inch-drive extension. Insert the extension through the holes in the hub face to access the hub bearing mounting bolts. Line the Torx bit up with the mounting bolt, then gently tap the outer end of the extension to make sure the bit is properly seated in the head of the bolt. Install a ratchet onto the end of the extension and remove the mounting bolt counterclockwise. Repmove all three mounting bolts.

Remove the hub assembly from the front of the steering knuckle, using a 3- to 5-pound mini-sledge hammer from behind. Hammer the hub bearing from several different angles to separate it from the steering knuckle. Pull the hub off by hand when it is free of the knuckle.

Thoroughly clean the rust from the inside flange of the steering knuckle and the face of the steering knuckle that the hub assembly mounts on. Use a wire brush or 80-grit metal sandpaper to clean the knuckle down to expose shiny metal. Add anti-seize to the face of the knuckle, iwhere the hub is going to be mounted. Add anti-seize to the inside of the knuckle flange that the hub bearing goes through.

Coat the inner splines of your new hub bearing with anti-seize to ease the process of inserting the axle through the new hub. Coat the outer splines of the axle with anti-seize as well. Insert the new hub bearing assembly onto the Sunfire, and hold it in place with one hand. Push the CV axle gently through the new hub bearing from the behind the steering knuckle. Install the axle nut washer and the axle nut with your hand.

Add a 1/2-inch-drive to 3/8-inch-drive adapter onto your 1/2-inch-drive torque wrench. Install the T55 Torx and extension onto one of the mounting bolts. Tighten the mounting bolts to between 60 to 70 foot-pounds of torque.

Install the brake rotor onto the new hub assembly. Turn a single lug nut onto one of the lugs, and spin it until it presses against the face of the rotor. This will hold the rotor during your brake installation. Wrap a towel around the end of your small pry bar. Insert the pry bar end between the two brake pads on the front caliper. Gently pry the inboard brake pad inward to compress the caliper piston slightly. Install the caliper over the rotor and tighten the mounting bolts to 40 foot-pounds with a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench and a hex head socket.

Repeat steps 3 through 11 to complete the hub bearing replacement on the second side of the Sunfire, if applicable. Install the front wheels and snug the lug nuts with a tire iron, in a star pattern. Lower the Sunfire to the ground. Tighten the axle nut(s) to between 140 and 180 foot-pounds of torque, using your torque wrench and the M20-1.5 spindle nut socket. Tighten the front wheel lug nuts, in a star pattern, to 100 foot-pounds.

Pump the brake pedal five to seven times or until it is firm. This will seat the pads back onto the rotors.

Items you will need

  • Tire Iron

  • 1/2-inch-drive breaker bar

  • M20-1.5 spindle nut socket

  • 1/2-inch-drive ratchet (optional)

  • 1-ton or greater capacity floor jack

  • 2 jack stands

  • 3/8-inch-drive ratchet

  • 3/8-inch-drive hex head socket set

  • Small pry bar

  • Metal coat hanger or metal hook

  • 3/8-inch-drive T55 Torx socket (star shaped)

  • 4-inch or longer, 3/8-inch-drive extension

  • Wire brush

  • 1 piece 80-grit sandpaper (optional)

  • 1 bottle anti-seize, with applicator brush

  • 1/2-inch-drive female to 3/8-inch-drive male socket adapter

 How Do I Change the Wheel Bearing on My 2002 GMC Sierra 1500 Truck?

Block the rear wheels with wheel chocks and apply the parking brake. Raise and support the side of the truck that has the faulty wheel bearing using a floor jack and jack stands. Remove the wheel using a lug wrench.

Remove the two 15 mm brake caliper bolts that attach the caliper assembly to the steering knuckle, using a socket and ratchet. Lift the caliper off the rotor and hang it from the upper control arm, using a piece of stiff wire. Use a pair of wire cutters to break off the factory installed brake rotor retaining clips if they are still present. Slide the brake rotor off the hub assembly.

Remove the axle nut in the center of the hub -- on four-wheel-drive models only -- using a 36 mm socket and ratchet. Unplug ABS sensor wiring from the back of the hub assembly. Remove the three 15 mm hub and bearing assembly bolts from the back of the steering knuckle. Slide the hub assembly out of the steering knuckle.

Install the new hub and bearing assembly into the steering knuckle and tighten the bolts. Install the axle nut on four-wheel-drive models and torque the nut to 133 foot-pounds, using a torque wrench. Plug the ABS sensor wiring into the new hub assembly.

Reinstall the brake rotor and caliper assembly. Torque the bolts to 129 foot-pounds. Reinstall the wheel and torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to 140 foot-pounds. Remove the jack stands and lower the truck slowly to the ground. Remove the floor jack and pump the brake pedal until the pedal is firm.

Lower and test drive

Items you will need

  • Wheel chock

  • Floor jack

  • Jack stands

  • Lug wrench

  • Wrench set

  • Socket set

 How to Replace the Wheel Bearings in the 2005 Nissan Sentra

Pull the cotter pin from the axle rod with your pliers. Pull off the washer. Loosen and remove the large, central nut on the axle rod with a 30 mm deep socket, 1/2-inch ratchet, and breaking bar. Remove this nut while the Sentra is on the ground to use the weight of the Sentra as leverage.

Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel with your lug nut wrench. Raise the Sentra with the car jack until the wheel is off the ground. Place a jack stand under the Sentra. Lower the Sentra so it rests on the jack stand for added stability. Remove the lug nuts. Pull off the wheel.

Remove the two 15 mm bolts from the brake caliper. Slide the caliper off the rotor. Strap the caliper to the suspension spring with wire.

Pull the rotor off the wheel bearing hub assembly with your hands.

Tap the axle shaft in with a chisel and mallet to dislodge it from the wheel bearing hub assembly. Remove the three 15 mm bolts securing the wheel bearing hub assembly to the knuckle.

Connect the wheel bearing hub puller wrench to the wheel bearing hub assembly with the three bolts you removed earlier. Turn the shaft of the puller wrench counter-clockwise to unseat the wheel bearing hub from the face plate.

Place the new wheel bearings on the face plate. Place a deep socket over the new wheel bearings. Tap the wheel bearings onto the plate with a mallet until the wheel bearing race is seated fully against the plate.

Grease the axle rod. Mount the new wheel bearing hub assembly to the knuckle with the three bolts you removed earlier. Replace the rotor. Remount the brake caliper. Replace the large central nut you removed earlier. Replace the washer and cotter pin to the axle rod. Replace the wheel. Lower the Sentra to the ground.

Items you will need

  • Pliers

  • 30 mm deep socket

  • 1/2-inch ratchet

  • Breaking bar

  • Car jack

  • Lug nut wrench

  • Jack stand

  • 15 mm socket

  • 3/8-inch ratchet

  • Wire

  • Wire cutter

  • Chisel

  • Mallet

  • Wheel bearing hub puller

  • New wheel bearings, part 1ASHS00225

  • Grease

 How to Change a Wheel Bearing on a Ford Taurus

Removal

Raise the vehicle with the jack and support it with a jack stand, and remove the wheel with the lug wrench. It may be necessary to slightly loosen the lug nuts before jacking the car up.

Position the jack stand on the frame away from your work area to avoid interference with your work.

Remove the two 15-mm caliper attaching bolts and hang the caliper with a wire from the strut. This prevents strain on the brake hose attached to the caliper. Remove the two 15-mm caliper bracket bolts, lay the bracket off to the side, and slide the rotor off the hub assembly.

Loosen, then remove the 36-mm axle nut, and drive the axle shaft partly out of the hub/bearing assembly using the punch and hammer. Select a large enough punch to fit snug in the dimple on the very end of the shaft. Pounding on the shaft itself will distort the threads and damage the axle.

Remove the outer tie rod end from the steering knuckle by removing the cotter pin and nut, then pressing the tie rod loose with the puller. Another way to release the tie rod, if a puller is not available, is to strike the steering arm near the tie rod with a hard blow from the hammer. A few hits usually pops it loose.

Rotate the steering knuckle while pushing the axle through, toward the transmission, to gain access to the retaining bolts on the back side of the steering knuckle. Remove the three 15-mm bolts and disconnect the anti-lock brake sensor. Then slide the hub and bearing assembly from the steering knuckle.

Replacement

Slip the axle shaft into the center of the new hub/bearing assembly, and rotate the hub until it engages the splines on the shaft. Then slide the assembly into place in the steering knuckle. Install and tighten the three 15-mm hub retaining bolts.

Reinstall the tie rod end, tighten the retaining nut securely, and replace the cotter pin. Be sure and spread the ends of the cotter pin so that it can't fall out while driving.

Reinstall the axle nut, and tighten securely. Refer to the service manual for the torque specifications for this nut, and tighten to specs with a torque wrench. Torque specs vary for different year models of the Taurus.

Reinstall the rotor, caliper bracket, and caliper in the reverse order of disassembly. Then reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle back onto the ground.

Items you will need

  • Jack

  • Jack stand

  • Lug wrench

  • 3/8 drive socket set

  • Diagonal cutters

  • Hammer

  • Tie rod puller

  • Punch

  • Torque wrench

 How to Replace the Wheel Bearings on a 2002 Ford Escape

Pull off the dust cap from the wheel of the Ford Escape that has the faulty wheel bearings.

Pull the cotter pin from the axle shaft with your pliers. Pull off the washer from the axle shaft with your hands.

Loosen and remove the large central axle nut with your 30 mm deep socket, 1/2-inch ratchet and breaking bar.

Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel. Raise the Ford Escape until the wheel is off the ground. Set a jack stand under the chassis. Raise the jack stand to support the Escape. Remove the lug nuts. Pull off the wheel.

Remove the three 15 mm bolts from the brake caliper bracket. Pull the bracket off the rotor. Tie the bracket to the suspension coil with wire. Do not let it dangle by the brake hose.

Tap the back of the rotor with your mallet to dislodge it. Pull it the rest of the way off the wheel bearing hub assembly by hand.

Disconnect the anti-lock brake wiring connector from the wheel bearing hub assembly.

Remove the three 15 mm bolts from behind the knuckle to pull off the wheel bearing hub assembly. Pry the assembly off if it is still stuck after the bolts are removed.

Attach the wheel bearing puller to the hub. Turn the shaft of the puller counter-clockwise to disconnect the wheel bearings from the hub.

Tap the new wheel bearings onto the hub with your mallet until the wheel bearing race is flush with the plate of the hub.

Clean the mating surface on the knuckle for the new hub with your medium-grit sandpaper. Grease the mating surface and the axle shaft.

Secure the new wheel bearing hub assembly to the knuckle with the bolts you removed earlier. Replace the rotor over the hub assembly. Remount the brake caliper bracket. Replace the large central axle nut, the washer, and the cotter pin. Mount the wheel, and lower the Ford Escape.

Repeat steps 1 through 12 for another wheel that has a faulty wheel bearing.

Items you will need

  • Pliers

  • 36 mm deep socket

  • 1/2-inch ratchet

  • Breaking bar

  • Wheel chocks

  • Jack

  • Lug nut wrench

  • Jack stand

  • 15 mm socket

  • 3/8-inch ratchet

  • Wire

  • Wire cutter

  • Chisel

  • Mallet

  • Medium-grit sandpaper

  • Grease

  • New wheel bearing hub, part 1ASHF00059

 How to Replace Wheel Bearings on a Ford F-150

Raise the truck with the floor jack and support it by the frame with the jack stands. Remove the tires, using the lug wrench to remove the lug nuts. Remove the two slider bolts securing the brake caliper to its mounting bracket using a socket. Lift the caliper off the rotor and suspend it from the spring with a suitable piece of wire.

Remove the bolts in the caliper-mounting bracket using a socket and remove the bracket. Remove the grease cup with the bearing cup removal tool. Cut and remove the cotter pin in the end of the spindle using the wire cutter. Loosen and remove the large bearing retainer nut on the spindle using the large adjustable wrench.

Grasp both sides of the rotor and shake it to force the front thrust bearing out of the rotor. The large washer will come out first, followed by the bearing. Lay the bearing on a clean cloth.

Install the large nut a few threads on the spindle. Grasp the rotor again, and with a fast jerk, pull the rotor off the spindle. The large nut will grab the rear bearing, causing it to be pulled out of the hub, along with the rear grease seal. Lay the rotor on a clean hard surface. Use the chisel by placing the tip on the inside lip of one of the bearing races and hammer it out. Hammer it on all four points of the compass so that it comes out evenly. Turn the rotor over and do the same for the opposite side.

Install the new bearing races by pushing them in with the taper facing outward, as far as possible, by hand. Place the old race on top of the new race and hammer the race into the hub until it stops. Pack both bearings with the wheel bearing grease.

Turn the rotor so that it is face down. Install the rear bearing and grease seal. Tap the seal with a hammer until it is flush with the hub. Slide the rotor on the spindle and while holding it on, install the front bearing, followed by the large washer and large nut. Run the nut down as far as possible by hand.

Set the preload on the bearings by tightening the large spindle nut with the adjustable wrench until it becomes tight enough to required pressure to continue. Rotate the nut counterclockwise as to back it off one-half turn. Install the lock washer cover over the large spindle nut and insert a cotter pin. Install the grease cup and tap it on with the hammer. Install the caliper mounting bracket and caliper and tighten all bolts securely. Install the tire and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench.

Items you will need

  • Floor jack

  • Jack stands

  • Lug wrench

  • Ratchet

  • Set of sockets

  • Large adjustable wrench

  • Wire cutters

  • Cotter pins

  • Hammer

  • 6-inch or longer chisel

  • Tub of wheel bearing grease

  • Bearing cup remover tool

  • Piece of wire

 How to Replace Wheel Bearings on a Mazda

Jack the car up at the wheel you intend to change the bearings in first. Use the lug wrench to remove the lugnuts holding the wheel on the hub and then pull the wheel off of the hub. Use the screwdriver to pry the grease seal (the cylindrical knob in the middle of the hub) out of the hub's center.

Use the pliers to pull the cotter pin out of the castle nut under the grease seal and then use the socket wrenches to remove the castle nut. Pull the hub assembly off of the spindle and use the screwdriver to pry the bearing unit out of the middle of the hub.

Pack the new bearings with grease by placing a thick layer of grease over the entire unit and then install the bearing unit in the center of the hub. Slide the hub back onto the spindle, followed by the castle nut. Tighten the castlenut down with the socket wrenches until it is just tight enough to seat the bearings solidly to the spindle. Insert a new cotter pin and then reinstall the grease seal by lightly tapping it into place over the castle nut with the hammer.

Slide the wheel back onto the wheel studs and reinstall the lugnuts with the lug wrench. Repeat Steps 1 to 4 for the other three wheels on the Mazda.

Items you will need

  • Flat screwdriver

  • Lug wrench

  • Jack

  • Socket wrenches

  • Pliers

  • Hammer

  • Bearing grease

 How to Replace the Wheel Bearings on a BMW E46

Raise the car with the floor jack and support it on jack stands. Remove the wheel at the corner where you are replacing the wheel bearing; set it aside. Remove the two caliper retaining bolts with a 16-mm socket. These are located on the back of the caliper, on the top and bottom facing the wheel well. Slide the caliper off the rotor. Support it with a piece of wire tied to a suspension piece, so that it doesn’t damage the soft brake line.

Remove the brake disc retaining bolt with a hex wrench. Pull the rotor straight off the hub and set it aside. Use a flat-head screwdriver to gently pry off the hub cover. Using a hammer and a screwdriver, tap the bent-in part of the hub nut back out to prevent the hub nut from unthreading.

Use a 46-mm socket and the impact gun to remove the hub nut. Use the hub press tool or the slide hammer to remove the hub and bearing by fastening it to the hub and pressing it off. If the inner wheel bearing race is still on the car, use a small puller to remove it.

Remove the inner seal cover with a thin punch by tapping the seal cover out. Clean the spindle and nearby areas with a clean rag. With a 10-mm deep socket remove the three bolts that hold the rear brake cover. Clean the cover and nearby areas, including the rear seal cover and the ABS sensor. Reinstall and tighten the bolts for the rear brake cover.

Press the new wheel bearing in by tapping its outer edge with a 36-mm socket and a dead blow hammer. Tap it in carefully, ensuring that is installed straight. Install and tighten the wheel bearing nut with a torque wrench to 214 lb/ft. Use a punch or screwdriver to tap the outer part of the hub nut back down to prevent the nut from unthreading.

Apply a thin film of anti-seize compound to the hub surface, where the rotor mounts. Reinstall the disc and the disc retaining bolt. Tighten the bolt to 12 lb/ft. Reinstall the caliper and the caliper bolts. Tighten the caliper bolts to 81 lb/ft with a torque wrench. Reinstall the hub cover by tapping it on. Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle to the ground.

Items you will need

  • Floor jack

  • Jack stands

  • Socket set and ratchet

  • Impact wrench

  • 6-mm hex wrench

  • Anti-seize compound

  • New hub and wheel bearing assembly

 How to Change a Wheel Bearing on a Saturn Vue

Engage the parking brake after placing the Vue on a flat, paved surface.

Remove the hub cap or center cap from the tire in question if applicable.

Break the lug nuts loose 1/8 of a turn counterclockwise with the lug wrench. Break the spindle nut loose one full turn with the breaker bar and a 34-mm spindle nut socket for a front bearing or a 30-mm spindle nut socket for a rear bearing.

Lift the Vue with a car jack and place a jack stand beneath the SUV to support it. Finish removing the lug nuts and then remove the wheel.

Locate the caliper bracket mounting bolts on the back side of the backing plate. Use the breaker bar and appropriate size socket to break them free and then switch to a ratchet to speed up the process.

Gently pry the caliper assembly off of the rotor using a small pry bar. Use a length of mechanic's wire or rope to bind it to the coil spring of the suspension to avoid it from dangling from the rubber brake hose.

Remove the rotor from the hub flange. Finish removing the spindle nut from the spindle with a ratchet and the appropriate socket.

Spray the front and rear hub flanges with lubricating spray on the front and rear where the bearing retaining bolts are located. The front Vue bearings employ three retaining bolts and the rear bearings use four. Allow the penetrating lubricant time to soak in.

Disconnect any ABS sensor wires connected to the hub bearing assembly. If you follow the wire (if applicable), you will find where it is plugged into the harness. Be sure to disconnect it from every retaining device along its length to the plug. A new wire and plug will come with the replacement bearing assembly.

Remove the hub bearing retaining bolts, breaking them free with the breaker bar first and then switching to the ratchet.

Use the hub puller (if necessary) to pry the hub bearing assembly from the hub.

Clean the mating surfaces of the hub and bearing assembly with emery cloth or sandpaper. You will need to manipulate the spindle of the drive shaft to clean the top of the hub surface.

Install the new bearing by reversing the steps. Use the torque wrench to tighten all bolts to the recommended torque specifications. You can find these in the owners manual or in a repair manual specified for the Saturn Vue. The parts store that sold you the wheel bearing assembly can look up these specs for you at no charge.

Items you will need

  • Car jack

  • Jack stand

  • Lug wrench

  • Breaker bar

  • Metric socket set

  • Ratchet

  • 30-mm spindle nut socket

  • 30-mm replacement locking spindle nut

  • 34-mm spindle nut socket

  • 34-mm replacement locking spindle nut

  • Hub puller

  • Mechanic's wire or length of rope

  • Light- to medium-grade sandpaper or emery cloth

  • Lubricating spray

  • Small pry bar

  • Replacement hub bearing assembly

  • Torque wrench

 How to Replace the Wheel Bearings on a Saturn L200

Place a wheel wedge behind a rear tire. Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery terminal from the battery.

Remove the hubcap(s) of the wheel(s). Crack the lug nuts loose with the lug wrench.

Ask an assistant to apply pressure to the brake pedal while you break the hub nut loose with the hub nut socket and a breaker bar. Do not remove the nut--just loosen it slightly.

Lift the car with the floor jack and safely secure it on both sides of the axle.

Remove the wheel and the hub nut. You will not use the hub nut again, so throw it away.

Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts and pry the caliper off of the rotor using a screwdriver. Support the caliper to the front end by bending a coat hanger into a makeshift hanger/support for the caliper and hooking it to the coil spring.

Remove the rotor. Use the rotor remover adapters from the hub removal kit, if necessary.

Remove the ABS connector from the hub assembly and remove the ABS jumper connector from the strut bracket.

Locate and remove the three wheel bearing retaining bolts located on the back of the knuckle. Use the breaker bar and a socket to loosen them, then switch the breaker bar to the ratchet for speed.

Install the bearing removal tool to remove the bearing. Be sure to take note of the position of the bearing spacer when extracting it so you can replace the spacer on the new bearing appropriately.

Install the new bearing by reversing the order of steps. Be sure to align the bearing spacer correctly. Tighten the bearing bolts to 90 foot-pounds with the torque wrench. Tighten the caliper mounting bolts to 90 foot-pounds. Tighten the new hub nut to 80 foot-pounds. Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds once the L200 is back on the ground.

Items you will need

  • Floor jack

  • Jack stand(s)

  • Wheel wedge/chock

  • Hub remover/installer kit

  • Lug wrench

  • 1/2-inch drive breaker bar

  • Hub nut socket

  • 1/2-inch drive socket set

  • 1/2-inch drive ratchet

  • Screwdrivers

  • Metal coat hanger

  • 1/2-inch drive torque wrench

  • Replacement bearing(s)

  • Replacement hub nut

 How to Replace the Wheel Bearings on a Saturn SL2

Park the Saturn SL2 on a paved flat surface. Apply the parking brake.

Release the hood latch if the Saturn SL2 has Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) and open the hood. Disconnect the negative battery terminal from the battery.

Remove the hub cap from the tire you're replacing the bearing on. Have someone depress the brake pedal inside the SL2 while you loosen the hub nut with a breaker bar and a hub nut socket. Have the assistant exit the SL2 once the nut is loosened.

Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel using the breaker bar and a socket.

Lift the front quarter of the Saturn with the floor jack and place the jack stand under the front frame rail. Remove the lug nuts and wheel. Remove the hub nut.

Pry the outboard brake pad against the rotor using the flathead screwdriver. This will compress the caliper piston enough to remove it easily and replace it easily once removed.

Remove the caliper anchor bolts (2) and remove the caliper, caliper anchor and pads as an assembled unit. This will save time for replacement. Support the caliper assembly to the coil spring of the SL2 with a bungee cord so it does not hang from the brake hose.

Remove the brake rotor. If necessary, spray lubricant on the center of the rotor by the hub bearing connection and use a rubber mallet to knock the rotor off if it is stuck to the hub

Remove the ABS connector if so equipped. Remove the ABS sensor jumper connection from the strut bracket if so equipped.

Locate and remove the three wheel bearing assembly mounting bolts located on the backside of the knuckle using the breaker bar and a socket. If necessary, tap the driveshaft spindle inward away from the hub bearing to allow room to get a socket onto the mounting bolt heads. Once the mounting bolts are broken loose, switch to a ratchet it order to speed things up.

Place the slide hammer onto the lug studs of the bearing assembly and tighten three lug nuts onto the studs to secure the slide hammer. Slide hammer the bearing off of the knuckle spraying lubricant as necessary in between the joint connection. When the bearing and spacer are removed, make sure to be aware of the spacer position so you replace it on the new bearing in the same position. Also note the position of the backing plate to replace that in the same position.

Clean the surface of the knuckle face and the hub cavity with a piece of emery cloth or light grade sand paper to remove and rust or uneven surface. Clean the inside of the rotor where the hub of the rotor sits against the flange of the hub bearing as well.

Replace the spacer onto the new bearing and insert it into the knuckle with the backing plate in between. Replace the bearing mounting bolts and alternately tighten them to draw the bearing into the knuckle evenly. Torque the bolts to 90 foot pounds with the adjustable torque wrench and socket.

Replace the ABS jumper connection to the strut bracket. Replace the ABS sensor connector. Replace the rotor, caliper assembly, and caliper mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 80 foot pounds with the torque wrench and a socket.

Reattach the negative battery cable to the battery.

Get your assistant to step onto the brake pedal again while you torque the hub nut to 90 foot pounds with the torque wrench and the hub nut socket.

Replace the wheel and lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts snug to the hub and lower the Saturn. Torque the lug nuts to 100 foot pounds with the torque wrench and a socket.

Remove the wheel chock, release the parking brake and test drive.

Items you will need

  • Floor jack

  • Jack stand

  • Wheel chock

  • 1/2-inch drive breaker bar

  • 1/2-inch drive socket set

  • 1/2-inch drive hub nut socket

  • 1/2-inch drive ratchet

  • 1/2-inch drive adjustable torque wrench

  • Bungee cord

  • Rubber mallet

  • Hammer

  • Spray lubricant

  • Flathead screwdriver

  • Slide hammer (with hub removal adapter)

  • Box end/open end combination hand wrench set

  • Emery cloth/light grade sandpaper

  • Replacement bearing