How to Replace the Front Wheel Bearing on a 2002 Jaguar X-Typeby Ian KellyUpdated November 07, 2017
Items you will need
Hydraulic jack rated for 5-tons or greater
Two axle stands
Socket wrench set
Set of combination wrenches
Two 18-inch long lengths of wire
Two thin blocks of wood
1/2-inch paint brush
Two sets of Jaguar X-Type front wheel bearings
Two front wheel bearing seals
Two front wheel spindle nut cotter pins
High-temperature wheel bearing grease
In most cases, the front wheel bearings on your 2002 Jaguar X-type do not need to be serviced until you change the brake pads. However, mechanically sound and correctly adjusted front wheel bearings are a critical part of vehicle safety; experiencing a seized wheel bearing while driving could wrench the steering wheel out of your hands and cause a nasty accident. Whenever the front of the vehicle is raised, spin the wheels to ensure that they run freely, then check for play by rocking the wheels from top-to-bottom and from side-to-side.
Loosen the front wheel nuts with a socket wrench before lifting the vehicle.
Place a hydraulic jack rated for 5-tons or greater under the center point of the front cross member and jack the vehicle up to the required height. Place two sturdy axle stands under the right and left chassis jacking points. Lower the vehicle onto the axle stands.
Grasp the top of each front tire with one hand and the bottom with the other. Pull the wheel in-and-out and then rock it from top-to-bottom. Inspect the bearings and replace them as needed, if there is any play in either direction.
Remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir and siphon off two-thirds of the fluid from the reservoir to prevent fluid from overflowing when the caliper pistons are pushed into the caliper bores.
Unscrew the front wheel nuts with a socket wrench and remove the wheels.
Withdraw the outer brake pad from the caliper housing.
Place an open-ended wrench on the flats of the caliper mounting bolt guide pins to prevent the bolts from turning. Undo the upper and lower caliper mounting bolts with a box wrench and slide the bolts out.
Withdraw the caliper and hang them out of the way on a piece of wire. Reinstall the outer brake pads and slide a thin block of wood between the pads to keep them separated.
Remove the brake disc retaining screw with an impact driver and remove the disc from the hub.
Pry the dust cap out of the hub with a screwdriver and hammer. Straighten the ends of the wheel bearing spindle nut cotter pin with a pair of needle-nose pliers and withdraw the cotter pin. Unscrew the lock nut with a suitable box-end wrench and soak the nut and washer into a shallow can of biodegradable solvent.
Force the outer bearing out of the spindle by pulling the hub out slightly while rocking the hub from side-to-side. Withdraw the hub. If the inner wheel bearing and seal don't come out with the hub, grasp the back of the seal with both hands and pull the inner bearing and seal off the spindle. Make a mental note of how the seal is installed.
Discard the old bearings and seals. Clean off all traces of old grease from the hubs and spindles with a biodegradable solvent and a 1/2-inch paint brush.
Take the wheel hubs to a reputable machine shop equipped with a hydraulic press. Have them remove the inner bearing races and then press new races into to hubs.
Pack special high-temperature wheel bearing grease between the bearing rollers, cone and cage from the back face of the bearing. Take special care to force grease between the rollers while doing so.
Lubricate the spindle, outer bearing seat, inner bearing seat, seal shoulder, and seal seat with a thin layer of high-temperature grease.
Scoop a small quantity of grease onto the end of your finger. Insert your finger into the hub from both sides. Form grease dams by packing a small amount of grease onto the inboard surfaces of each bearing; this will provide space for extra grease and also prevent heat-thinned grease from oozing outward.
Fit the grease packed inner bearing into the inner race and smear extra grease on the outboard face of the bearing.
Tap a new bearing seal evenly into the recess over the inner bearing with a plastic mallet. Tap around the perimeter of the seal until the outer face of the seal is flush with the hub.
Slide the hub onto the spindle and push it all the way in. Push the outer grease packed bearing into the outer race.
Wipe the hub washer and nut off with a clean rag. Place the washer on the spindle and thread the spindle nut onto the shaft. Rotate the hub in a forward direction and snug the spindle nut down with an open-end wrench. Stop tightening as soon as you feel the slightest resistance.
Tighten the spindle nut with a torque wrench and socket to 30 lb-ft -- 27 Nm -- while rotating the wheel forward to seat the bearings. Remove any burrs and excess grease from the hub and bearing recess that could cause play in the bearings later.
Loosen the spindle nut 1/4-turn and then tighten the nut by hand as far as possible until the slots in the spindle lock nut line up with the holes in the spindle. Insert a new cotter pin. Bend the cotter pin ends with pliers until they lie flat against the nut. Snip off the ends with a pair of side cutters, if they interfere with the dust cap.
Tap the dust cap into the hub evenly with the plastic mallet.
Refit the brake caliper and disc. Top up the hydraulic reservoir with fresh "DOT 4" grade hydraulic brake fluid.
Refit the wheels and tightly snug the lug nuts. Grasp the top and bottom of both wheels in turn and check for play as described in Step 2.
Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel nuts to 59 foot-pounds with a torque wrench, if the vehicle is fitted with steel wheels; Tighten the wheel nuts to 76 foot-pounds, if it is fitted with alloy wheels.
Bearings and races come in a matched set; never install new bearings on old races and vice-versa. Never siphon hydraulic brake fluid by sucking the tube with your mouth to start the action; hydraulic brake fluid is toxic. Use a commercially available siphon pump with a starter bulb instead. Do not use the mechanical jack that came with the vehicle to raise the front wheels one at a time when lifting the vehicle onto axle stands. If you lift one corner at a time, the car may tip sideways off the previously placed axle stand and cause a nasty accident.
After graduating from the University of the Witwatersrand and qualifying as an aircraft engineer, Ian Kelly joined a Kitchen remodeling company and qualified as a Certified Kitchen Designer (CKD). Kelly then established an organization specializing in home improvement, including repair and maintenance of household appliances, garden equipment and lawn mowers.