How to Replace a Fuel Pump in Cars

by Contributing Writer; Updated June 12, 2017

The Buick car came equipped with a throttle body type injector system. Fuel is delivered to the high-pressure injectors from the fuel tank by a low-pressure/high volume, diaphragm type, positive displacement electric fuel pump that is mounted inside the gas tank. Fuel pump failure can be caused by a breakdown in the electric fuel pump motor or a failure in the rubber diaphragm. Symptoms of a bad fuel pump can be created if the fuel pump relay or the fuel pump fuse is burned out. These components are easily checked and should be eliminated as possibilities before you go through the process of removing the fuel pump.

Under The Hood:

 How to Replace a Fuel Pump in a Hyundai Accent

Relieve the Fuel System Pressure

Remove the rear seat cushion by pulling on the retaining strap located towards the back of the seat. Then pull the seat upward.

Pull the access door panel on the floor by pulling the door through the hole with your finger or a screwdriver.

Unplug the fuel pump module connector by pressing on the lock tab and pulling the plastic connector from the harness.

Start the engine and let it idle until it stalls.

Crank the engine for about 3 seconds.

Turn the ignition switch off.

Remove the Fuel Pump

Disconnect the black, negative battery cable using a wrench.

Disconnect the fuel supply, return and vapor lines from the fuel pump/sending unit assembly by pressing on the lock tabs of the plastic connectors. Work through the door access panel.

Unplug the fuel sender connector by pressing the lock tab and pull the connector off its harness.

Unscrew the lockring holding the fuel pump/sending unit assembly onto the tank using a spanner wrench. Turn the lockring counterclockwise until the ring is released.

Lift the fuel pump/sending unit assembly off the fuel tank being careful not to damage the sender unit extension arm.

Remove the fuel pump from the assembly.

Install the New Fuel Pump

Mount the new fuel pump on the pump/sending unit assembly.

Set the pump/sending unit assembly in the tank with the sender unit extension arm pointing towards the rear of the fuel tank. If provided, make sure any arrows or marks on the pump/sending unit assembly flange align with the arrow or marks on the fuel tank mounting base.

Lock the pump/sending unit assembly in place by turning the lockring clockwise using the spanner wrench.

Plug the fuel sender connector.

Connect the fuel supply, return and vapor lines.

Replace the access panel door.

Install the rear seat cushion.

Connect the black, negative battery cable.

Items you will need

  • Screwdriver

  • Wrench set

  • Spanner wrench

 How to Replace a Fuel Pump in a Mazda6

Determine the fuel pump that your Mazda6 will require. This depends on the make and model and engine size of your vehicle. Models made from 2002 to 2007 can have a 1.8 L, 2.0 L, 2.3 L, 3.0 L or 2.0 L diesel engine. Models after 2007 come equipped with a 1.8 L, 2.0 L, 2.5 L, 3.7 L or 2.0 L diesel engine.

Relieve the fuel system pressure and disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench.

Access the fuel pump by taking out the rear seat and removing the service hole cover. Unplug the fuel pump's electrical connector and disconnect the hoses from the fuel tank.

Remove the fuel pump using tool 49 F042 00 while ensuring there is no gap between the tool and the fuel pump cap. You will now be able to remove the fuel pump and gaskets from the fuel tank.

Install the new fuel pump using the items included in the kit, especially the gasket. Align the start positions of the fuel pump cap and retainer and tighten the cap one full turn by hand. Use Tool 49 F042 00 and a torque wrench to finish tightening the cap to between 59 and 99 ft. lbs.

Items you will need

  • Fuel pump kit

  • Socket wrench set

  • Tool 49 F042 00

  • Torque wrench

 How to Change the Fuel Pump on a Mercury Mountaineer

Drive the Mercury until you are just about out of gas. Park it where you will perform the work and pull the fuel pump relay (located in the relay box under the hood) while the engine is running. The engine will stall out after a few seconds, once it has lost fuel pressure. Set the parking brake before getting out.

Use the battery terminal wrench to disconnect the negative battery cable.

Place the wheels chocks at the front and rear of the driver's side front tire.

Put your safety glasses on and jack up the rear of the Mercury. Set it down on the jack stands. You should position the jack stands in such a way that they will not interfere with lowering the fuel tank.

Raise the jack back up and position it under the center of the fuel tank, using the 2x4 as a buffer between the jack head and bottom of the tank.

Use the socket set to remove the bolts holding on the fuel tank straps. At this point, you may want to have a helper hold onto the fuel tank so it does not move on its own.

Lower the jack a few inches until you can reach up and disconnect the wiring harness going to the fuel pump and the fuel vapor return lines. Once that is disconnected, jockey the fuel tank down farther until you can disconnect the filler neck, which should be held on by one bolt in a retaining strap.

Pull the fuel tank out from under the Mercury and set it carefully on the ground.

Wrap a rag around the tip of a flathead screwdriver; place the tip of the screwdriver against the retaining ring holding the fuel pump in place and carefully tap the screwdriver with a mallet to turn the ring until the fuel pump is free.

Lift the fuel pump up and out of the fuel tank and set it aside somewhere safe.

Install the new pump, being careful not to pinch the new gasket as you re-seat the retaining ring.

Move the tank back into place far enough so that you can reconnect the fuel filler neck. Then, lift the tank up farther so you can reconnect the wiring harness and the fuel vapor return lines to the pump assembly.

Lift the fuel tank back into position and bolt the retaining straps back in place.

Plug the fuel pump relay back in, reconnect the negative battery cable and turn the key to the run position and listen for the pump to cycle. Do this four more times before starting the Mercury. Once it is running, carefully inspect for any fuel leaks around the tank.

Lower the Mercury back to the ground.

Items you will need

  • Battery terminal wrench

  • 2 wheel chocks

  • Safety glasses

  • Jack

  • 2 heavy duty jack stands

  • One-foot length of 2x4

  • Socket set

  • Rags

  • Flathead screwdriver

  • Rubber mallet

  • Replacement fuel pump

  • Haynes Manual specific to your Mercury

 How to Change a Fuel Pump in a Toyota Corolla

Choose a new fuel pump for the Toyota Corolla. This will require knowledge of the make and model, engine size and engine type. A Toyota Corolla may have one of the following engines: 2.0 L S/C LSJI4; 2.0 L Turbo LNFI4; 2.2 L L61I4; 2.2 L LAPI4; or 2.4 L LE5I4.

Prepare the vehicle for fuel pump servicing. Relieve the fuel system pressure and disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. Wait at least 90 seconds on vehicles equipped with an air bag before doing anything else.

Access the fuel pump by removing the bottom of the rear seat. Open the service hole in the rear floor. Take out the bolts that hold the fuel tank set plate to the fuel tank and remove the fuel pump assembly.

Disconnect the fuel pump sender and electrical connection for the fuel pump. Remove the outlet tube and return the tube from the fuel pump bracket. Separate the bracket from the fuel tank and pull the lower part of the fuel pump away from the bracket. Disconnect the fuel hose and rubber cushion from the fuel pump. Remove the small clip that holds the fuel filter to the pump.

Install the new fuel pump using the items included in the kit, and be sure to replace the rubber cushion and clip. Use a torque wrench to tighten the attaching bolts for the fuel tank set to 30 in. lbs.

Items you will need

  • Fuel pump kit Socket wrench set Torque wrench

 How to Replace a Fuel Pump in a Hyundai Santa Fe

Choose a new fuel pump for your Hyundai Santa Fe. This will require you to know the make and model, engine size and engine type. Models made from 2001 to 2006 can have a 2.7 L Delta or 3.5 L Sigma engines. Models made after 2006 have a 2.7 L or 3.3 L engine.

Prepare your vehicle for fuel pump servicing. Remove the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine until it stalls. Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench and replace the fuel pump fuse.

Disconnect the electrical harness from the fuel pump in addition to the fuel send and return lines. Remove the screws on the fuel pump cover with a Phillips screwdriver and take the fuel pump out of the fuel tank.

Install the new fuel pump using the items included in the kit.

Put in the screws on the fuel pump cover with a Phillips screwdriver. Plug in the electrical harness from the fuel pump and connect the fuel send and return lines. Connect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench, start the engine and check for leaks.

Items you will need

  • Fuel pump kit

  • Phillips screwdriver

  • Socket wrench set

 How to Change Out the Fuel Pump in a Protege

Crank the Protege's engine to begin relieving the fuel system pressure.

Remove the rear seat cushion by pulling the straps protruding from beneath the seat. Remove the Phillips-head screws from the fuel pump access cover. Lift the cover away.

Disconnect the visible electrical connection attached to the fuel pump access cover. Wait for the engine to stall, and then turn the engine off and remove the key.

Open the hood and unhook the negative battery cable (-) with your pliers. Set the cable aside.

Unhook the fuel supply and return hoses attached to the fuel pump. Note their position on the fuel pump; they need to be attached to the new fuel pump in the same way.

Remove the screws from the fuel pump assembly. Lift the assembly out of its mount. Remove the old gasket from the mount and discard it. Wipe the contact area with a clean, dry rag.

Insert the new fuel pump assembl, along with the new gasket. Tighten the mounting screws, reconnect the electrical connection and the supply/return hoses.

Replace the fuel pump access cover. Tighten the cover's screws. Replace the rear seat cushion.

Reconnect the negative battery cable. Insert the key into the ignition. Turn the key to "On" for approximately 10 seconds, then turn it off. Repeat the process once to rebuild the fuel system pressure.

Items you will need

  • Phillips-head screwdriver

  • Gloves

  • Pliers

  • Replacement gasket

  • Replacement fuel pump assembly

 How to Change the Fuel Pump on a Mopar 318

Park the vehicle on a level, paved surface. Set the parking brake.

Slide a drain pan under the fuel pump. The fuel pump is on the front passenger's side of the engine, attached to the timing cover. Loosen the hose clamp where the rubber fuel tank supply line attaches to the fuel pump. Pull the line off of the fuel pump fitting and immediately plug it with a 3/8-inch bolt.

Use a wrench to remove the carburetor supply line. A small amount of gas will run back out of the line. If you want to replace the fuel filter, which is a good idea, loosen the hose clamps on each end of the filter and remove the rubber lines.

Remove the two bolts that hold the pump onto the timing cover. Pull the pump away from the timing cover. As you are removing the bolts you may notice that something is pushing against the pump. This is the eccentric on the camshaft pushing on the fuel pump arm.

Remove the gasket from the timing cover if it didn't come off with the pump. Scrape any remaining material from the timing cover with a putty knife. Spray some parts cleaner and a shop rag and clean the gasket surface of the timing cover.

Coat the gasket surfaces on the fuel pump and timing cover with gasket sealer. Coat both sides of the gasket with gasket sealer and mount the gasket on the fuel pump. Slide the pump into the timing cover and start the bolts by hand. You may have to exert a little bit of pressure on the pump to hold it in position to line up the bolts because of the arm making contact with the eccentric. Once you have the bolts started, use a ratchet socket to tighten the bolts a little bit at a time, switching back and forth between the bolts until they are tight.

Thread the carburetor supply line into the fuel pump fitting by hand to avoid damaging the threads then tighten the fitting with a wrench. If you're replacing the fuel filter, install it on the rubber lines and tighten the hose clamps. Make sure to filter is pointing in the right direction. It should have an arrow indicating the direction of fuel flow towards the carburetor.

Remove the bolt from the fuel tank supply line and push the line onto the fuel pump fitting. Tighten the hose clamp. Remove the drain pan. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Items you will need

  • Drain pan

  • Slotted screwdriver

  • 3/8-inch bolt

  • Wrench set

  • Putty knife

  • Parts cleaner

  • Gasket sealer

 How to Replace the Fuel Pump in KIA Sephia

Remove the gas cap and relieve pressure in the tank. Remove the fuel pump fuse and let the car run until it stalls.

Remove the negative battery cable to prevent any accidental sparks. Remove the two mounting bolts that hold the back seat in place, then remove the back seat

Disconnect the electrical connector that is located underneath the back seat. These are electrical wires going though a grommet that is on a metal cover that is bolted in place. Unplug the wires and loosen the grommet. Unbolt the cover and pull the wires through the opening. These are the fuel module wires.

Set the cover aside and loosen two fuel hoses that are attached to the fuel pump module. These are quick connect fuel connections and will require fuel line disconnect tools that are available at parts stores. Remove the six small bolts that hold the module into the fuel tank. Lift the fuel module out of the tank and set it aside.

Remove the old gasket on the tank. Install the new one that came with the new fuel pump module. Place the new module in place and install the six screws to hold it in place. Snug the screws firmly in place, but do not overtighten them and perhaps strip the threads. Snap the fuel lines into place and listen for a distinct click as they seat into place.

Route the fuel lines through the cover plate. Install the rubber grommet to protect the wires. Bolt the plate into place and plug the wires into their connector.

Reinstall the back seat and replace the two retaining bolts. Install the fuel pump fuse and start the car. Let it run for a few minutes and check underneath the tank for fuel leaks.

Items you will need

  • 3/8-inch socket set

  • Wrench set

  • Screwdriver set

  • Fuel line disconnect set

 How to Replace a Fuel Pump in a 1999 Chrysler Cirrus

Relieve System Pressure

Remove the car's fuel cap to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank.

Remove or fold back any carpeting on the left side of the car's trunk to access the fuel pump electrical connector. The connector plugs into the car's wiring harness near the raised, circular shock tower. Unplug the connector from the harness. Follow the fuel pump wires to the rubber grommet located in the trunk floor, just behind the rear seat. Push the grommet through the floor and feed the electrical connector through the hole.

Start the car engine. It should stall in a few seconds because of lack of fuel. Try to restart it to be sure the fuel lines are clear.

Remove the negative cable from the battery to reduce the chance of sparking.

Remove Tank

Raise the vehicle using the jack. Support the vehicle with four jack stands. You must raise the vehicle to allow for removal of the fuel tank.

Place the container under the fuel tank drain plug, which is on the driver's side of the tank. If necessary, use a funnel to make it easier to collect the fuel and avoid spillage. Use a socket wrench to remove the plug by turning it counterclockwise. Replace the drain plug once the fuel stops draining. Some fuel is left in the tank.

Loosen the clamp on the fuel filler hose where it attaches to the fuel tank. Remove the hose, which leads from the gas filler spout.

Detach the two fuel lines from the fuel pump. The module is on the passenger side of the tank on the top side. The connectors are quick-release types that consist of a notch and tab. Depress the tab and separate the lines. Label the lines so you can replace them correctly.

Unplug the vapor hose on the rear of the fuel tank by pulling the hose straight off.

Place the jack under the fuel tank with the wood block in place. Raise the jack to support the tank. Remove the two fuel tank straps that hold the tank to the car. Each has one bolt on each end. Use caution as you release the second strap as the tank may shift if not properly supported. Lower the jack. Remove the tank from beneath the car.

Replace Pump

Wipe the area around the fuel pump module to ensure it's free from dirt that might contaminate the fuel tank. Turn the fuel pump module ring counterclockwise using a pair of large pliers. Remove the module ring from the tank.

Pull the fuel pump from the tank, being careful not to damage the sending unit arm. Angling the module may make it easier to remove.

Insert the new fuel pump module. Replace the retainer ring.

Move the fuel tank back under the car, and raise the jack to place it in the proper location. Replace the fuel tank straps to secure the tank.

Replace the fuel lines by snapping them back onto the fuel pump module. Make sure they are properly connected by referring to the labels you attached earlier. Reattach the vapor hose.

Reattach the fuel filler hose to the fuel tank. Tighten the clamp.

Reinsert the fuel pump wiring connector through the hole in the trunk floor. Connect it to the wiring harness.

Turn the ignition to the "On" position, but do not start the car engine. Turn it to the "Off" position. Repeat this several times to prime the system. Replace the fuel cap. Start the car engine. Check under the car for any signs of leakage.

Items you will need

  • Floor jack and jack stands

  • Socket wrench set

  • Wood block

  • Empty gasoline container

  • Phillips screwdriver

  • Large pliers

  • New fuel pump module

 How to Replace a Fuel Pump on a Miata

Pull back the rear carpeting located directly below the convertible top. The carpet is held on by plastic clips that will have to be pried out with a flat head screwdriver.

Remove the four screws holding the fuel pump cover down with a Phillips head screwdriver.

Remove the electrical connectors attached to the fuel pump assembly.

Crank the vehicle two or three times for approximately five seconds to relieve fuel system pressure so that fuel doesn’t splash around.

Remove the fuel lines from the fuel pump assembly by removing the hose clamps with a screwdriver. Then pull the fuel lines out of the assembly.

Remove the screws holding the fuel pump assembly in place with a screwdriver.

Remove the fuel pump and immediately place it in a bucket inside the vehicle so that fuel doesn’t drip on the interior carpeting.

Remove the fuel pump from its assembly and replace with the new fuel pump.

Place the fuel pump assembly back in the fuel pump and tighten all screws with a screwdriver.

Re-connect the electrical connectors and fuel lines.

Install the fuel pump cover by tightening the screws with a screwdriver.

Put the carpet back into place and push in the plastic retainers to hold the carpet down.

Items you will need

  • Flat head screwdriver

  • Phillips head screwdriver

  • Drain pan

  • Replacement fuel pump

 How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 1996 Park Avenue

Lift the rear of the Buick using a 2-ton jack or a jack with greater capacity. Place jack stands beneath either end of the rear axle beam, just inside the rear tires. The closer you get the jack stands to the outside of the car, the more stability you have in supporting the Buick for the duration of this project. If you decide to drive the back of the car onto wheel ramps, make sure it is on a level surface and that the ramps do not buckle at all under the weight of the car. Using wheel ramps to lift the rear of the car will eliminate the need for the jack stands.

Lay beneath the rear bumper of the Buick and slide your body so that you can physically access the bottom of the fuel tank. Slide the jack beneath the fuel tank. Place a length of wood -- 1-foot long, by 4-inches wide, by 1/2-inch thick or greater -- beneath the fuel tank. Raise the jack up to the bottom of the fuel tank, with the wooden plank between the fuel tank and the jack. Do not press on the bottom of the fuel tank with the jack and wooden platform, but rest the platform snug against the bottom of the tank to support it.

Remove the two fuel hoses from the rear of the fuel tank. The rubber hoses are held on with hose clamps. Remove the clamps with a 3/8-inch ratchet and socket. Pull the rubber fuel filler hose and the vapor hose off of the rear of the fuel tank by hand. Insert a flathead screwdriver between the end of the hoses and the fuel tank fittings if the hoses are stuck onto the fuel tank at all. Moving the screwdriver around between the two parts will remove the corrosion that bonds the fuel and vapor hoses to the fuel tank fittings.

Remove the fuel tank strap mounting bolts from the rear of the Buick, using a 3/8-inch drive ratchet and socket. The tank strap bolts are located just in front of the rear axle beam, and are mounted into the frame support. Adding a 6-inch extension between the ratchet and socket can allow you greater reach and more maneuverability to remove the bolts. Turn the bolts counterclockwise until the strap bolts and tank straps come free of the bottom of the car.

Lower the fuel tank about halfway between the ground and the bottom of the car. Give yourself enough room to physically access and be able to see the top of the fuel tank. Remove the two small fuel hoses leading to the fuel pump, using a 3/8-inch drive ratchet and socket. Remove the hose clamps with the ratchet and socket, and then remove the hoses by hand. Remove the electrical connector from the top of the fuel pump by pinching it between your thumb and forefinger, and pulling it free of the fuel pump.

Drop the fuel tank completely down on the jack and slide the fuel tank onto a large piece of cardboard. Placing cardboard between the tank and ground will ensure that you do not create any spark or static electrical charge while removing the fuel tank from the Buick. Slide the fuel tank out from underneath the rear of the Buick.

Place the tip of a flathead screwdriver against the corner of one of the vertically protruding, metal tabs. These tabs are part of the fuel tank lock ring. Hit the end of the screwdriver to turn the fuel tank lock ring counterclockwise. Continue this procedure until the fuel tank lock ring pops upward and free of the fuel tank. This lock ring is responsible for holding the fuel pump into the fuel tank.

Remove the fuel pump from the fuel tank by pulling it straight upward out of the tank. Twist the pump on a horizontal plain to clear the fuel tank level float of the lip of the fuel tank. The float is mounted on the side of the pump and can sometimes get jammed between the pump and tank during removal. The twisting motion will allow the fuel pump to become clear of the tank, followed by the fuel float. Remove the fuel pump from the tank and immediately place the old pump directly into a drain pan. Remove the rubber O-ring gasket from the top lip of the fuel tank.

Insert a small amount of petroleum jelly on the lip of the fuel tank. Install the fuel tank O-ring gasket onto the lip of the tank. The petroleum jelly will help seal the fuel pump and tank assemblies together, but also helps hold the O-ring in place during pump installation. Install the new fuel pump straight downward into the fuel tank, making sure that the fuel float enters the tank first. Turn the fuel pump prior to seating it onto the tank, so that the fittings on the top of the pump match the direction that the fittings on the old pump were facing. Aligning the fittings will help lessen the installation time underneath the Buick.

Install the fuel tank lock ring on top of the new fuel pump. Push the lock ring downward by hand while simultaneously twisting the ring clockwise to set it under the fuel tank lock tabs. Place the tip of a flathead screwdriver against one of the vertically protruding lock ring tabs. Hit the end of the screwdriver with a hammer to force lock ring to continue turning clockwise, until the lock ring tabs are completely aligned and beneath the fuel tank lock tabs.

Slide the fuel tank back underneath the Buick, making sure that the tank stays atop the large piece of cardboard. Slide the tank onto the fuel tank straps to begin aligning the straps under the belly of the tank. Lift the tank or angle the fuel tank so that you can set your jack and wooden platform back beneath the tank. Slide the platform and jack into the dead center of the fuel tank for proper alignment and placement of the tank during installation.

Lift the fuel tank on the jack and wooden platform about halfway between the bottom of the Buick and the ground. Install the electrical connector onto the new pump by simply pushing it on with your hand. Install the two small fuel hoses to the fuel pump and tighten the small hose clamps with a 3/8-inch drive ratchet and socket. You only need 15 foot-pounds of pressure to tighten the hoses thoroughly. This can best be measured by turning the clamps so they are snug, and then turning the ratchet 1/4-turn farther. Use the "snug-and-a-quarter" turn method to tighten both small hose clamps.

Raise the fuel tank up so that it is resting against the bottom of the Buick. Install the two fuel hoses onto the rear of the fuel tank. Use your hand to push the fuel filler hose and vapor hose onto the tank protrusions. Tighten the hose clamps with a 3/8-inch drive ratchet and socket, using the "snug-and-a-quarter" turning method again. Do not over-tighten hose clamps or you could damage the fuel hoses, creating more time consuming and costly work for yourself.

Align the fuel tank straps with the fuel tank mounting bolt holes. Insert the fuel tank strap mounting bolts by hand and start the bolts inward a couple of threads. Tighten the bolts upward using a 3/8 inch drive ratchet and socket, with a 6-inch extension. Tighten the bolts as tight as you physically can get them, as they are supposed to be tightened between 80 to 100 foot-pounds of torque. If you feel the need to use a torque wrench, tighten the bolts accordingly using the torque measurements provided.

Turn the key in the ignition to the "II" position or accessories position, without actually turning the Buick's engine on. Turn the key back to "Off" position after one second. Repeat this process between 4 and 5 times. This procedure allows fuel that has escaped out of the lines during the pump replacement, to reenter the fuel lines. Turning the key to the accessories position and back off primes the fuel lines up to the engine with fuel and fuel pressure to start the car safely. Start the car only after you have primed the lines no less than 4 times. Shut the car off after you let it run for a few moments to test the new fuel pump.

Lift the rear of the Buick up with a 2-ton jack or a jack with greater capacity. Remove the jack stands from beneath the Buick and lower the vehicle. Drive the car forward if you mounted the car on vehicle ramps for this project.

Items you will need

  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet and socket, with 6-inch extension

  • 2-ton jack or jack with greater capacity

  • 2 jack stands

  • Tube of petroleum jelly

  • Large piece of cardboard

  • Length of wood, 1-foot long, by 4-inches wide, by 1/2-inch thick or greater thickness

  • New fuel pump

  • Certified automotive drain pan

 How to Replace a Fuel Pump on a Toyota T-100

Drive the vehicle or let the engine run until the fuel gauge reads very close to empty. If the fuel pump is inoperable and the vehicle won't run, you will have to siphon the fuel out of the fuel tank.

Relieve the pressure from the fuel lines. Remove the fuel pump relay from the engine bay fuse box, remove the fuel filler cap and crank the vehicle. Let it run until the engine sputters and dies. The fuel system is under intense pressure; it must be relieved before performing the procedure.

Disconnect the negative battery cable with the pliers. Lift the vehicle from the front first, using the factory jacking point between the front axle. Support the front with two jack stands. Repeat to lift and support the rear.

Remove the fuel lines from the tank and cap them off to prevent leaking. Even after you have relieved fuel system pressure there will still be a small amount of fuel in the lines. Remove the fuel filler connection and the vent lines.

Remove the fuel tank support brackets then support the fuel tank with the floor jack. Remove the bolts mounting the fuel tank. Once the bolts are removed, have a helper slowly let the jack down while you support the sides of the fuel tank. Be careful not to spill fuel. Even if you have siphoned the fuel out, there will likely be a couple of gallons left in reserve.

Remove the eight mounting bolts to take out the fuel pump. Discard the old gasket. Install the new gasket and mount the new fuel pump. Use the torque wrench to tighten the pump bolts to 35 foot-pounds.

Lift the fuel tank into its mounting position. Have a helper provide support with the jack, but do not rely solely on the jack. Tighten the mounting bolts on the fuel tank, then remove the jack.

Reattach the fuel filler connection, vent lines and fuel lines. Reattach the support brackets. Lower the vehicle and replace the fuel pump relay and the fuel filler cap. Connect the negative battery cable and start the engine to check for leaks.

Items you will need

  • Siphon (optional)

  • Pliers

  • Floor jack

  • 4 jack stands

  • Socket wrench set

  • Torque wrench

  • Replacement fuel pump

  • Replacement fuel pump gasket

 How to Replace a Fuel Pump on a 2004 KIA Optima

Raise the trunk lid and access the fuel tank service cover in the upper right-hand side of the trunk ledge. Remove the cover and unplug the electrical connector that powers the fuel pump. Start the car and let it run until the engine dies. This will remove the high-pressure fuel that is in the line so fuel will not spray when the line is disconnected. Test for voltage by probing the positive and negative fuel pump wires with a test-light. Make sure there is a voltage signal to the pump. If there is, the pump is defective. Turn the key off when the car stalls and replace the pump.

Disconnect the fuel feed line with the quick disconnect feature that is part of the fuel line fitting. Squeeze the two tangs of the connector and pull the hose off. Remove the fuel vapor hose that goes to the vapor canister by loosening the clamp and pulling the hose off the vapor port. Remove the retainer ring that holds the pump assembly in place using a small shop hammer and screwdriver. Lightly tap the screwdriver against the indents on the retaining ring until it unscrews. (The ring looks like a large lid that screws to a jar.) Completely loosen the ring and remove the pump module by lifting it up and out.

Install a new pump module into the opening. The new module will come complete, including a new fuel filter. No parts will need to be transferred from the old pump module. Push the new module into the fuel tank and tighten the retaining ring into place. Snap the fuel feed line into place, making sure there is a distinctive snap as the line locks in. Install the vapor line and tighten the hose clamp. Do not leave this line off or fuel vapors will enter the car. Plug the wiring harness in, and replace the pump cover. Start the car.

Items you will need

  • 3/8-inch socket set

  • Screwdriver set

  • Shop hammer

  • 12-volt test-light

  • Fuel pump module

 How to Change the Fuel Pump in a 1996 Buick Regal

Remove the Gas Tank

Remove the fuel filler cap to vent any pressure in the tank to the atmosphere. Remove the fuel pump fuse from the fuse box.

Start the engine and run it until it dies. Turn the engine over with the key for three seconds. Turn the key off.

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a wrench.

Siphon as much fuel from the tank as possible with a siphon kit.

Chock the front wheels with wood blocks. Raise the rear of the vehicle with a jack and support the vehicle with jack stands.

Disconnect the connector block for the fuel gauge sending unit and the fuel pump power supply located at the front of the tank by hand.

Disconnect the filler neck, vent, fuel feed, fuel return and fuel vapor tubes from the tank. Squeeze the tabs on the plastic retainer clip by hand and pull the lines off. Loosen the pressure fittings with a flare nut wrench and a backup wrench. Inspect the o-ring on the pressure fitting and replace if necessary.

Remove the rubber exhaust hangers and remove the exhaust pipe and heat shield with wrenches, if necessary. Remove both fuel tank retaining straps with a wrench. Carefully lower the fuel tank away from the vehicle.

Replacing the Fuel Pump

Tap carefully on the tabs of the lock ring with a punch and a hammer (preferably made of brass and rubber) respectively, and rotate the ring counterclockwise until the tabs align with the slots in the fuel tank to unlock the fuel pump.

Lift the pump up and out of the tank. Use caution when handling the fuel level float and the fuel level sending unit as they are delicate and easily damaged.

Inspect the rubber sealing ring around the locking mechanism. Replace the ring if it appears damaged or deteriorated before installing the new pump.

Guide the new pump into the tank and push the pump against the tank to compress the sealing ring and allow the locking ring to engage in the tabs. Tap the ring into the locked position with the hammer and punch.

Reverse the removal process to finish installation.

Items you will need

  • Wrench set

  • Siphon

  • Wood blocks

  • Jack

  • Jack stands

  • Flare-nut wrench set

  • Brass punch

  • Hammer (brass, leather, rubber or wood)

 How to Replace a Fuel Pump in a 1987 Corvette

Fuel Pump Removal

Remove the negative cable from the battery using a battery terminal wrench. Remove the gas cap from the fuel filler leading into the gas tank.

Remove the fuel filler door by loosening the four Torx screws with a Torx bit and ratchet.

Peel up the rubber mat around the fuel tank filler tube. Remove the mat to expose the screws holding the fuel sender cover plate.

Remove the eight screws in the fuel sender cover plate with a small metric socket and ratchet.

Loosen the clamps for the fuel return line, fuel feed line and vapor hose with a flat-bladed screwdriver. Pull each hose gently to disconnect it from the fuel sender cover plate.

Disconnect the electrical connection to the fuel sender by gently prying the connector's locking mechanism with your hand. Pull the connector free from the sending cover by gently wiggling it with a lateral movement.

Vertically lift the fuel sender and fuel pump assembly out of the vehicle.

Remove both electrical connectors on the fuel pump. Loosen the nut on the fuel feed line with a open end metric wrench to remove the fuel pump.

Fuel Pump Replacement

Connect the new fuel pump to the fuel feed line by tightening the nut onto the fuel pump. Reattach both electrical connectors to the fuel pump.

Insert the fuel pump assembly into the gas tank and align the screw holes in the fuel sender cover with the openings in the fuel tank. Insert the eight screws into the fuel sender cover and tighten using a metric socket and ratchet.

Return the fuel feed line, fuel return line and fuel vapor hose to the original position and secure with the clamps. Tighten the clamps using a flat blade screwdriver. Slide the electrical connector over the receptacle on the fuel sender cover until it locks in place.

Return the rubber mat to its original position over the fuel sender cover.

Reinstall the fuel filler door and secure with the four Torx screws. Tighten the gas cap on the fuel filler tube.

Reattach the negative battery cable to the battery with the battery terminal wrench.

Items you will need

  • Battery terminal wrench

  • Torx bit

  • Ratchet

  • Metric socket

  • Open end metric wrench

  • Flat-bladed screwdriver

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